
In
existence before "New Orleans" even bore its
name, and having served as a Spanish armory, Tujague’s
restaurant has survived decades of war, depression,
fire and plague to bring you a tradition of culinary
excellence undiminished today.
Prosperity
had never smiled more broadly on New Orleans than it
did in the period when Tujague’s first opened
its doors. The city’s growth during the 1850’s
was immense, and, for European emigrants in search of
success in the New World, opportunity was everywhere
for the taking.
Guillaume
and Marie Abadie Tujague took this advantage in 1852
when they married and set sail for America from Bordeaux
France. Guillaume Tujague became a butcher in the French
Market for three years before they established Tujague’s
Restaurant in 1856. They began by serving breakfast
and lunch to the dock workers, market laborers and seamen
who crowded that part of the riverfront. The South was
still recovering from the Civil War, but Tujague’s
never missed serving a meal!
The
lunches were seven course affairs, but tradition says
the reputation of Tujague’s from the beginning
was built on two dishes – a piquant remoulade
sauce flavoring spicy cold shrimp, and succulent chunks
of beef brisket boiled with aromatic vegetables and
served with a horseradish sauce.
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Already
56 years old, horse and buggies still traveled on cobblestone
streets outside of the restaurant, although an occasional
automobile would be seen. Inside, a beer was only 4 cents.
Sometime
before Guilliaume Tujague died in 1912, he sold the restaurant
to Phlibert Guichet, who had come to work there from Guichetville,
a community near Raceland in Lafourche Parish. Tujague’s
closest competition always had been Begue’s, a few doors
up Decatur at the corner of Madison. The proprietor-chef there
was the legendary Elizabeth Kettenring Dutreuil Begue, a Bavarian
emigrant who had been cooking for the French Market crowd
since 1863.
In
1906, Madame Begue, died and her restaurant was taken over
by her daughter and son-in-law, the Anouilles. One of the
employees at Madame Begue’s was Jean-Dominic Castet,
who had come to New Orleans from France in 1905. Castet and
Philibert Buichet decided to join forces, and in 1914 they
bought Elizabeth Begue’s restaurant from her now-widowed
daughter and hung out a new sign reading "Tujague’s".
And
Tujague’s it’s been for the past 72 years. For
Older New Orleanians, the person most closely identified with
Tujague’s was the industrious Clemence Castet, Jean-Cominic’s
widow. Until her death in 1969, she ruled the dining room
and the kitchen with an iron hand, often bringing food to
the tables herself. After
Clemence Castet’s death, the Guichet family retained
ownership of Tujague’s until 1982, when New Orleans
businessman Steven Latter took it over. Latter has painstakingly
researched the restaurant’s history to restore it to
its early state. In the dining room and the connecting saloon,
with a bar brought from France in 1856, Latter also has covered
the walls with photos, clippings and other memorabilia relating
to the history of Tujague’s. Latter has resurrected
many of the restaurant’s culinary traditions as well.
Today, the customers are still served several traditional
Tujague’s specialties – shrimp remoulade, beef
brisket with horseradish, "cap" bread (a Tujague’s
original) and dark coffee in shot glasses.
Tujague's
became a recognized local institution. But, New Orleans could
never keep a good thing to herself. Inevitably, the pleasures
of Tujague’s were shared with visitors. Presidents –
Roosevelt, Truman, Eisenhower, France’s De Gaulle –
have enjoyed Tujague’s hospitality. The guest book include
such notables as Cole Porter, O. Henry, Diane Sawyer, Don
Johnson, Harrison Ford, Margot Kidder, Dan Akroyd, Ty Cobb,
John D. Rockefeller and other well-known personalities whose
claim to distinction rests simply and appropriately on their
appreciation of fine food.
The
restaurant’s style is as refreshingly unpretentious
as ever. And the food is as delectable as it was in the days
of the first Tujague's. No other city has – or could
have – a Tujague’s. It is unmistakably, a New
Orleans classic neighborhood restaurant.
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